Many things in our daily lives are leftovers from the early days, and we continue to use them only because of inertia, even if they don't have much meaning in modern times. Examples include 60 Hz power grids, spacing between railway tracks, and of course freestanding attic stairs for installation between standard spacing ceiling joists. It is not wide enough to fit large or heavy objects into the attic, and the building standards will not change because of this inconvenience, so if you want to turn that space into something more useful, you need to build a custom elevator.
This attic elevator was brought to us by [Brian]. He recently moved into a house whose area is about half the size of his previous home, but still needs to install all his things. This means a clever way of using available space. For the elevator, he built a platform out of 2x lumber and fixed it together with bolts and steel supports. The carriage runs up and down on tracks made of 1 5/8" super pillars and is hoisted by a winch motor rated at 550 pounds, which is enough to lift most household items including large tool boxes.
The only thing we want to see in the video is how the opening is made. Presumably, this will involve cutting the ceiling joists to make the opening wider than standard attic stairs, and care needs to be taken to ensure that the ceiling/floor is not weakened. Either way, this is a good solution to a common problem, and perhaps it is possible to use a custom controller to work on more than two levels.
Thanks [Jake] for the tips!
Haha, I thought I believed that unstrut was infinitely powerful, but this article forced me to admit that my beliefs are limited! I just saw that this kind of triangle loading is too much for the inside curl.
In other words, I like it, but still want to build an elevator in one of my closets.
When he wants to sell his house, will it pass the inspection?
I suspect it will be difficult to remove.
Probably not, but who cares?
House sales inspectors are mainly looking for deferred maintenance. They occasionally discover changes that may damage the structure of the house, but it is not their job to know whether certain things are allowed.
If the permit inspector asks something else to see it, it may lead to some follow-up actions.
Assuming that the disc of the winch before the hook arrives has a safety closing device, he should raise the height of the disc to an appropriate height, and close it at the top of the elevator stroke.
I am looking forward to the article "This is better than the 60 Hz grid".
This may be the old saying that "local power distribution should be low-voltage DC".
(The voltage must be switched anyway, there is no arc suppression in the switch, and high cable loss, it all failed)
No, no, give them a chance. This may be the argument that "local distribution should be wireless induction". There are coils on the floor and ceiling, and the efficiency is 60%.
Or, "The local distribution should be 400 Hz military/aircraft power so we can use a smaller transformer."
Or, hey, let's set it to 440 Hz so you can tune the guitar.
Yes, this is a very stupid comment. Okay, you might argue about the relationship between 50 Hz and 60 Hz, but what, DC? 400 Hz? There are good reasons for DC's failure in the current war. High frequency as a power transmission method has its shortcomings (skin effect, corona loss, etc.)
@Mike: Thanks for using the word "Corona" in a way that has nothing to do with the new crown virus!
Good luck deploying all these 5g = corona fool
The law requires all new electronics enthusiasts to believe that 12v is the future. It's like writing your own backup software or text editor and convincing yourself that it has better hardware than ordinary software...
I'm pretty sure that the one time they are completely correct is the lighting. Our current lighting method is a hacking technique based on incandescent lamp technology, and we should treat standard modular drivers and LED modules as separate parts.
But what is the multiple of 3-3.3V?
No, it should be exactly 4.2 volts, so you can directly plug the LiPO battery into the wall to charge it.
Yes, unless you won’t get rid of the "hacker" in any way, because you still have desk lamps and floor lamps, as well as other lamps plugged into standard wall sockets with 60 Hz AC power. Then you will have two competing standards.
What is it for? A properly designed LED lamp should last 25 years, right? If it's special, it shouldn't matter, because next time you need to buy another one, the entire system will have to be overhauled anyway. Buy spare parts boxes, they should last the life of the entire house.
Think about it, they have sold complete lamps and fixtures with built-in LEDs, you can't even turn them on, and there are no replacement bulbs.
After discovering that my previous replaceable ink cartridges had been discontinued, I went this way with a tap. Well, I am not going to let the new models you buy here cannot be repaired within 15 years, and take away the life-sealed models.
The rookie thinks that engineers and inventors are idiots through and through. IMHO, this is more like a banality of mental projection and technology. Most of the low-hanging fruits that were easy to pick have disappeared. Few people bring up some neglected things from the field on the left.
As an electrician, I often meet people who "Why can't I have USB plugs everywhere". I am eagerly waiting for the day when they can show me their USB vacuum cleaner. Regarding 12-volt lighting, I don't think it will happen anytime soon. The electrical code adds new rules very quickly, but deletes old rules very slowly. In larger houses with 12 volts, you will also quickly experience voltage drops. Even in a residential environment, due to the length of operation (120 volts), I need to upgrade the wire gauge of the circuit I operate
Whoever wants USB sockets can get them (installed). I think the major manufacturers have sold them, although I haven't seen them in the diy store yet. Personally, I want one for my fone-but only if they have a switch for psu to shit on the bed. I have seen too many USB psus that have melted or otherwise ejected.
USB sockets ("regular socket plus USB port" or "USB port only") are easily available from many sources in large stores and online. My normal warning to everyone who has the urge to install is to ensure that they have UL (or CSA or other testing laboratory) certification before connecting, and insist on using a brand that has experience in manufacturing sockets (the first batch of USB charging I installed is still It works well, but the contacts on the 120V receiver are bent and cannot be inserted).
Once USB-C USB-PD (at higher power levels) began to become a cost-heat level with "fixed it in a socket" use. :)
My advice is to avoid using USB sockets-in my experience, they tend to be very loud due to transformer noise (although my hearing is very sensitive). Unlike noisy plug-in devices that can be replaced (or swapped-put noisy equipment in the kitchen, etc.), replacing them will bring more pain-maybe some good equipment, not everyone can hear higher The frequency is plagued by it. But this really bothers me.
USB-powered vacuum cleaners are really not as impossible as they used to be-USB PD and QC now allow very high power (I can’t say that I’m a big fan of USB’s becoming chaotic, but it can be used correctly. The USB power supply powers the application).
DC only home is not a stupid idea either, it brings different challenges-but in theory it can be very efficient at home, while getting rid of many huge power bricks, because almost all equipment in the home is actually running inside the DC- —If all of your equipment motors, etc. actually use AC phase shift operation...Of course, this is the only thing that makes sense to anyone trying to get off the grid in houseboats, caravans, mobile homes—and has been successfully done many times. .
The only error with 120v/60Hz is that 240v/50Hz exists. Let us get rid of these two stupid standards, choose one, and I will vote for 240v/60Hz.
However, accidental contact with 240v is much more dangerous than 120v. I voted that we have 240v dedicated to devices that require more than ~2kW, and connect 120v to all other devices.
There are already your votes in parts of Brazil!
https://www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/plug-voltage-by-country/brazil/
Why not use 240V/50Hz like the rest of the world? Why is it not compatible with 60 and 50 Hz?
Because 60 Hz makes fluorescent lights and cheap LEDs less flickering, it makes it easier to synchronize clocks on the grid, it makes DC smoother (easier to filter) when rectifying, and it improves the response speed of ground fault circuit breakers and safety relays by 20 %, it needs less iron in the transformer...
Before frequency standardization, household power supply can be as high as 133 Hz, because high frequency is conducive to stable lighting and easy to switch between voltages, while the operating frequency of motors such as industry and railways is as low as 16-30 Hz, because large induction motors operate at high frequencies. It is more difficult to start.
AEG is standardized to 50 Hz, because this is the lowest frequency at which an incandescent bulb will not "pulsate" annoyingly. Westinghouse sets the frequency to 60 Hz, so the arc lighting will operate more smoothly. Both are compromises between motor and lighting operation.
Nowadays, when we equip all the larger motors with variable frequency drives and all the smaller motors with BLDC or other servo-type drives, we no longer need to maintain 50 or 60 Hz. In fact, most household appliances really don’t care where they are. The kind you have.
I used 15 Hz incandescent bulbs and they did not flicker significantly (although I am very sensitive to flickering LEDs). I think the problem of low frequency flicker is more obvious in arc lamps.
http://electrical-science.blogspot.com/2009/12/history-of-power-frequency.html lists the decision to adopt 50Hz in 1891, which is Edison’s first practical incandescent lamp in 13 years and 9 After he found the bamboo lamp-but I couldn't find useful information on whether this was enough to make incandescent bulbs the main method of electric lighting (rather than carbon arc lamps). Fluorescent lights were still being invented at the time, and LEDs were still a century away from being used for lighting.
My parents remember 25 Hz and how the lights flickered. Until the early 1950s, the frequency in Ontario, Canada was 25 Hz.
Who is using 240V/50Hz? In the UK, we have been using 230V/50Hz for some time. Because the EU uses 220V/50Hz, we can claim that 230V is within the 6% tolerance range allowed by 220V, and therefore meets EU standards. Will this situation change after Brexit and return to the "British Bulldog" 240V, who knows?
Compromise with 180 V at 55 Hz.
Your local construction authority will not be amused. Any injury and your homeowner’s insurance will not be covered. These things require permits and inspections. That gourd is not suitable. There is no safety switch or fall protection. Can children use it? Sorry to be a wet blanket, but some things are just a bad idea.
indeed. I won't say that I have never built anything that makes obvious concessions to safety, but after they have fulfilled their one-time purpose, I will unplug them and take them apart. This looks a bit like an elevator and an "amateur amputation device."
Some items are best left "unrecorded". Compared to your occasional use of this kind of thing, you may accept the real risk of driving around every day.
There are many tools you can use to ampute your limbs. These tools are marked with "I" approved by each government and paid a license fee-you can treat this thing responsibly/disconnect it when not in use/don’t Let the children play with it and so on.
If you can cut them all off, it would be a clever technique. According to my calculations, you only have one arm left.
I hope to see certain types of safety features throughout the video, and they are indeed easier to install and use than recovering from an elevator accident. When working in the semiconductor service industry, I had a problem with a customer moving a large vacuum pump to the pump room (the workshop is only on the second floor, and the pump thrust is more than 1,000 pounds. The maintenance engineer built an elevator to move the pump. It has 3 basic safety systems. : 1. Only used for equipment without personnel. The device has a 3 3/4 high wall, far away from the carriage and interlocked doors to load the equipment. It will move only when all doors are closed, and all the equipment will be moved when moving. The doors are automatically locked until the carriage comes to a stop, and only 2 persons and the person in charge of building services have the key of the unit. 2. The lifting motor is on the beam on the top of the frame, and the cable is looped around a stationary pulley and connected to the same place where the winch is located. The other end of the frame. This makes it easy to maintain the lift motor and cable inspection, and put any problems within the sight of the eyes so that the problems can be seen before serious problems occur. 3: They h Advertising ratchets/pawls Settings, such as the old bumper jacks or some independent store lifts, the lever is on the carriage, manually set up or down, the staff explained that the system is a lever to run 4 independent safety hooks, if the cable is indeed broken, The car will not fall more than a few inches. Of course, they spent money on this, but the only option is to make a complete extension of the building to increase the store space required! It has inspections and inspections required by law. Certification, they are sure that it can meet OSHA and insurance rules. As long as it is equipment! However, as a person who hates climbing and sweating in elevators, I will ride it!
I am an elevator manufacturer for 40 years. This thing is not safe. All elevators have redundant safety. This thing should be used to make firewood
No one mentioned the 2 attic supports he chopped down—I bet that everything in the storage eventually returned to the garage before he realized how the truss ropes gained the strength to support the roof. He can use more space with his best intentions-but he can’t put the toolbox there and mount it on the ceiling, and expects that there may be a 2×4 truss bottom rope, which is designed to Support a plasterboard to survive the winter...
I can't see exactly what he did there. The typical way to deal with this situation is to double the trusses and expand them with a title bar at a cutoff that is at least the same size as them. I saw some 2×4s there, but maybe the holes were made into squares to serve as decoration and/or gypsum board frames, not the only thing there. Who knows, if you want to do it right, check it out.
The carpentry work of drilling holes is the core of the project, not the business of lifting the platform. It is not only to satisfy the code for the sake of the code, but to have an attic whose structural design is not affected.
It doesn't look like a truss in the attic, it looks like a rafter. If he really goes through the joist and he catches the one he goes through, he is fine. (If he crosses the truss, he will be very, very nervous, but this is also true without an elevator, because he moves upward with a lot of weight.)
I am not saying that there is a structural problem. I am not saying that there are no structural problems. I don't have a license in Minnesota, so no matter what I think.
He linked to a video he used as a guide, which seemed to do something appropriate.
What kind of safety cutoff is appropriate here? 1) The beam surrounding the horizontal perimeter of the base is about one inch above the horizontal surface of the platform. 2) The 3 openings of the elevator are perpendicular to the light curtain around the virtual wall, between the platform layer and the hole layer. 3) What else?
4) A small cup under the outlet is called "orange juice" because you can feel the squeeze.
This is a dumb. Apartment buildings in the pre-elevator era often have them. Buildings not for human habitation may have different regulations according to building codes. But I remember a lady who worked at Dayton Airport. As far as I know, she was crushed to death while trying to clear the luggage elevator.
A place where I work has a trash can left in the building by a previous owner, and it needs to be checked and signed by all county elevators. Maybe the rules are different, but it still needs to be checked.
Yes, when a person enters a dumbbell, it becomes a dumbbell with dumbbells, (well, until they are crushed to death, then they will scream.)
Maybe...but there is not much waiting here...it looks like his winch is fast! ;-) (let the extra pun begin)
I don't think he has to modify the truss to fit it. The truss runs from left to right, and the platform does not look wider than the truss I expected.
As for the safety issue, it is just a platform connected to the winch, which can lift large objects. People enter still through the ladder in front of it.
This is much safer than trying to push a box into the ceiling space on a ladder.
"As for safety, it is just a platform connected to the winch, which can pull large objects. People still enter through the ladder in front of it."
Well, you obviously didn't watch the video. In fact, the only person in the video who took the elevator into the attic was a person.
What is the point of a lift without Igor to wrap the handle? There is a small room or cabin at the top of all suitable elevators for Igors to live and work.
This is an offense to all Igor who works hard. Someone should take a stand (perhaps hunched).
Over the years, using lightning, people began to understand a lot of Igor. Natural lightning is far better than artificial lightning.
In terms of safety, this requires: 1. Release the brake when lifting 2. A clumsy but reliable sensor that stops the motor when the motor reaches the top floor 3. A clumsy but reliable sensor that prevents the motor from running on the platform in the space on the first floor Very busy 4. A clumsy but reliable sensor that can stop the motor if it senses too much lifting force (if the legs hang on the platform) 5. A net or a system that prevents people from falling from the top of the floor when the platform is opened
So: if I were him, I would place a wooden board under the platform (so that once it rises, it will touch the ceiling) and place a level sensor rod (you can find the same sensor on any garage door to sense if there is something Block on this plank when closed). This sensor should be used as a motor shutdown switch. This will prevent the motor from coming into contact with anything hanging on the platform (legs, tools...). The same horizontal rod sensor is also used at the bottom of the plank, and when it reaches the bottom layer or anything below, the motor will shut itself off.
As for the brake, well, it's not too high, I think if you fall from it, you won't be hurt so much.
For the grid, he can place another board, which is connected to the support of the top motor via a rotary joint. The plank will be at a 45° angle to the top layer like this: |\__
So when the platform is there, the platform pushes the board up, like this: /| |_ __
And you can safely exit the platform. When it is not there, the board will automatically close to prevent anyone from falling into the hole.
The same type of safety rod can be installed on the ceiling at the edge of the hole to stop when something gets stuck between the platform and the ceiling.
For braking, one option is an automatic climbing brake like this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-locking_device. If the speed is too high, it will engage.
Why do so many people finish half of the gypsum board? Afraid of promises? Just sand the joints and paint! Even if your joints are not perfect, it still looks better (and better protects the drywall) than you see in the photos in this article.
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